Mini Musing 2.26.26


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     Our favorite national park and one that we have visited several times is Big Bend. When the kids were little we would stay at a motel in Terlingua with a bathroom, comfy beds and a kitchenette because it made life easier and happier for all of us. Terlingua used to only have about two motels and they were both near the park's south entrance. If you planned a couple weeks in advance it was no problem getting a room. Terlingua was a dusty middle of nowhere town and most folks who lived there were off the grid types who wanted to be left alone or just passing through. The Starlight served up a good meal and musical entertainment some nights. We have enjoyed two Thanksgivings there with the tastiest jalapeno gravy on our turkey and stuffing. There are a few artists who sell their work at the gift store next to the Starlight. You could find the most beautiful signed and matted photographs, pottery, and sunset paintings sold next to the Terlingua tee shirts and Big Bend magnets. There was one small centrally located market that sold the basics but it closed early and don't expect to find much in the way of produce or other fresh items. Terlingua was still a middle of nowhere desert town. The liquor store stood right next to the market and kept longer hours.

     Our Big Bend trips were usually 3-4 days, hot and dusty while we explored during the day but cool and clear in the evenings with the most amazing dark skies. We had to take Rafa's truck since so many of the best parts of the park are accessible only by 4X4. It was isolated out there and we'd let the boys practice their driving skills. It's where we discovered that tarantulas are not scary or dangerous and you could pick them up and they would just chill in your hand. Big Bend is also the place that I fell in love with the roadrunner. They are great hunters, fast, curious and almost even friendly. They don't mind people and I have seen roadrunners stalk and take down hummingbirds for dinner. They are bad ass birds in general.

     Lots of things have changed in Terlingua and Big Bend NP over the last 15-20 years. The park has gotten busier, the town has grown full of AirBnb's and other places to stay. There's more businesses. But the isolation, the desert, the mountains, the Rio Grande, the canyons, the quiet, the native plants and wildlife and the night skies have not. Until now.